Cartagena Celebrity Post!

Hello to all of the fans of the adventures of Kyle & Nicole!

We just spent a little more than two wonderful days with the newly engaged couple, and I asked if I could do a guest blog on those two days, and they obliged!

A little about us - I’m John Sullivan, and Nicole used to be on my team at TD Ameritrade. However, I don’t look at Nicole as another former employee - she’s like family. While I haven't spent a lot of time with Kyle in the past, I always have enjoyed getting to know him each of the times that we did hang out. My wife, Staci, also works at TD Ameritrade and we’re blessed with two children - Denni (10) and Brock (6).

When Spring Break for the kiddos was coming, Staci & I knew we wanted to do some travel without the kiddos (we have recently done family trips to NYC, Orlando, and Hawaii, so it was time for some Adult time), but we didn’t know where to go. Thankfully, we knew two

amazing people out on a trek around the world. After I asked Nicole if we could meet up with them for a few days, she didn’t just say ‘yes’, she seemed genuinely excited for us to join them! The only concern we had was where the Nebraska Nomads might be this week. As

much as I envy them for doing 18 mile hikes up the mountains of Iceland and getting to the top of Machu Picchu in Peru, there’s just no way that we’d be doing something like that. When Nicole said they’d love to meet us in Cartagena, Colombia, a historic location with beautiful views and beaches, we were in. (Well, Staci was a little worried about the reputation of certain elements of Colombia, but I assured her that Nicole wasn’t going to plan any excursions

where we’d meet up with any of Pablo Escobar’s relatives.)

Due to some timing issues (Nicole & Kyle had to head up to Phoenix for a few days), we got to Cartagena a day ahead of our hosts. We were more than a little worried about how we’d get by since neither of us speaks Spanish. (I knew Nicole could speak the language, but how would we get around without her?) When we got to the airport, we noticed a lot of signs in both Spanish & English, so we thought that was a good sign. After leaving the airport in an Uber, our driver spoke broken, but very understandable English. Then, when we went to check-in at the Hilton Cartagena, Nathalia, the girl at the Reception desk spoke really clear English. So, we thought it was going to be a sign that English must be pretty common down here. However, it was not. The Uber driver had warned us that most Uber drivers there wouldn’t speak any English; I thought maybe he was just saying that as a way to say “You’re lucky you got me” for a good tip, but that was not the case; he was telling us the truth. It’s funny how the first few people we interacted with did set a tone that it was common, but we found it to be very un-common to speak English. Yet, with a lot of pointing at menus and pulling up Google Translate on our phones, we made it through a day without Kyle & Nicole and had a really nice relaxing day with some beach & pool time, along with some great Colombian food.

Tuesday morning brought a beautiful sunrise over the city/ocean view and shortly after, we met up with Kyle & Nicole for the first time. So great to see them! They had planned out a really cool excursion - a boat ride from the shores of Cartagena to a few nearby islands! When we got to the docks, Kyle saw what he thought was our boat (based on the pictures) and offered to go ensure it was them. “Kyle has gotten so much more comfortable with his Spanish,” Nicole remarked. “A few months ago, he would have made me check.” After Kyle confirmed we had the right boat, we hopped on and met our tour guide, Arturo. We were fortunate that Nicole had done some research to find Arturo, as he didn’t just speak clear English, he was a pretty cool guy also. Taking the Speed Boat out to the nearby islands was an adventure at times, as the waters could get a little rough, but with frequent stops to show us random houses or small islands in the water, it wasn’t so bad. One of the coolest things we saw was two historic forts that were used hundreds of years ago to protect the area from Pirates.

At one point, we stopped to see a crashed plane that was at the bottom of the ocean. “Rumor has it that it’s Pablo Escobar’s plane, but that’s all fake” said Arturo, with a laugh. Nicole & Kyle hopped in to see if they could swim down to see it, but I’m not what you’d call a real strong swimmer, so I stayed back. Staci is a good swimmer, but there were a lot of others in the water at the time, so she stayed back to avoid the crowd. However, at our next stop, Staci, Nicole, & Kyle all hopped in the water with some snorkeling gear to see what kind of sea life they could observe. I didn’t join them, but I actually was thinking about it, because it was starting to get HOT. I tried to move within the boat to the shaded area, but the boat kept drifting and so the shade kept moving on me. I’m glad they all got it and enjoyed themselves, but I was ready to get moving so the breeze from the ride could cool me down a little. While we were stopped, we were approached by a guy in a solo canoe with a traveling bar. He was serving mixed drinks in Coconuts (and he opened the Coconuts right on the canoe). We had our own drinks, but we did buy a Coconut for each couple, just to say we did. :) (We thought this was pretty unusual, but we would later see multiple other guys in canoes with their own traveling bar, so I guess it's not unusual to Colombians.)

Our next stop was a small island called "Tierra Bomba Island", so we could grab some lunch. We walked into the restaurant on the beach and sat down at a picnic table and Arturo got us a menu. At this point, the most bizarre thing on the trip occurred - which also is one of the most bizarre things I’ve ever seen. After we got our menus, a guy suddenly appeared with a bucket and showed us a live crab and a live lobster, trying to get us to buy them for lunch. Why is this bizarre? Because he didn’t even work there! Have you ever gone into a restaurant and had a competing chef walk into the restaurant to get you to buy their food instead, right in front of the owner? What if a guy selling Cheeseburgers walked into a McDonalds right as you were about to order and tried to get you to buy his cheeseburgers instead; how long would it take for that guy to get kicked out? Well, on the islands off Colombia, they don’t get kicked out. Arturo told us that they have rules that favor the locals. So, as wild as it sounds that a guy walked into another restaurant to sell us food, it happened. When we were ready to order, Arturo ended up taking our order (he was suddenly our waiter), and said “Ok, so you’ll buy the lobster from ‘the guy’, and you’ll get this other stuff from the restaurant.” We got some truly outstanding Fish Ceviche from the restaurant, along with some really good Coconut Rice, which we would come to find is a specialty on the island. Generally speaking, neither Staci, nor I, like coconut. However, the way it was prepared with the rice really did add some great flavor. But not to be outdone, the lobster from ‘the guy’ was also something special. It was probably the best lobster and best ceviche that I’ve ever had. When it was time to pay, we paid the restaurant with no problems, but ‘the guy’ was nowhere to be seen. Arturo started yelling for ‘Lobster Boy’ so we could pay him. Eventually we found him and went down to the beach.

A little ocean time off the beach felt pretty refreshing in the heat. At one point, we noticed a swing off the dock. “I bet Nicole would get on that swing and then jump into the ocean”, I remarked. “I 100% would,” she replied as she went up to the dock to try it. Alas, the swing was nailed to the platform in a way that made it unusable. So, at this point, we were onto the last part of the excursion. We got back in the speed boat for the ride back. Nicole had made us a reservation for a 4 PM Rooftop Dancing lesson, so we needed to get back by 2:30, in order to have adequate time to get cleaned up ahead of the reservation. It was already almost 2 PM, and we were a long way from the Hotel, so we told Arturo to not make any more stops. I mentioned that the trip there was rough at times, but not so bad because of the frequent stops. This time, there were no stops, and it was an incredibly uncomfortable ride for 30 minutes or so. As it kept going and going and going, I just kept thinking of Ray Stantz in Ghostbusters saying "Try to imagine all life as you know it stopping instantaneously and every molecule in your body exploding at the speed of light." It's hard to believe that none of us got motion sickness. *We did have to turn back at one point because Nicole‘s hat somehow ended up in the ocean - though it was quickly rescued* When we got back to the dock we departed from, Arturo had arranged a car for us to get back to the hotel, for just 10,000 COP (Colombian Pesos). One thing we found about travel in Cartagena is that it is far less expensive than what we were used to back home. The average Uber ride was 10,000-15,000 COP, which is in the $2.50 range in USD. After we got back to the hotel and got cleaned up, Nicole figured out that our dance reservation had flaked out on us. So, we invited Kyle & Nicole to our room to hang out on the balcony and have a few drinks. When we booked our trip, the flights were pretty high, but we were shocked how inexpensive the room at the Hilton was. Since it was so much less than we anticipated, we went ahead and upgraded to a room with a balcony view. What we didn’t expect was how breathtaking the view from the balcony would be. So, Nicole & Kyle joined us and we had a great time catching up and just unwinding for a while as we watched the sunset.

After the sunset, we took an Uber to an area called Old Town, which is inside of an enclosed historic Fort. Before dinner, we decided to take a horse carriage ride around town while the guide told us about the sites. He didn’t speak English, so Nicole had to play Translator. Fairly early on the ride, we had our first interaction with panhandling rappers (yes, that’s a thing) as a group of guys with a portable radio swung by and started pointing at us while in the carriage to get our attention and spit some rhymes. Unfortunately, they didn’t know a lot of English rhymes. So, mostly what we heard was the same sentences (that didn’t rhyme) over and over. “You are the boss. You are the king. You look like Tom Cruise.” Over the next 24 hours, we saw lots of these panhandling rappers. (Most of these 'rappers' said the same things, but I was also told by one that I look like Vin Diesel, which I can see since we're both bald and handsome, but he’d have to gain about 100 pounds. Kyle was told that he looked like Brad Pitt.) Later on, I told Staci that it’s clear she’s jealous that they all pointed at me to say that I’m the boss; they could just tell.

After the Carriage ride, we grabbed dinner at a restaurant called Candé that more than one person told us about. We quickly realized why it had been so highly recommended. The atmosphere was unique and enlivening, while the food was unique and delicious. We were fortunate to be on the top level, with no roof (weather was perfect after dark) with a band playing right next to our table. The food was highlighted by more delicious Ceviche (everyone but me thought it was even better than the Ceviche at lunch) and lots of other great seafood. After dinner, we chatted and listened to the band for a while before calling it a night.

On Wednesday morning, we had another bizarre moment when we got Covid-tested. Before booking the trip, we didn't know that even vaccinated U.S. citizens require a negative Covid test within 24 hours of entering the U.S. While neither of us had any reason to believe we would have Covid, the idea we'd be stuck in Colombia for who knows how long is a little un-nerving. But, the bizarre part is that we had gone through the Hotel to schedule someone to come administer the test at 2 PM. By coincidence, we were in the lobby at 9:30 when the guy showed up and wanted to do the test then. The entire process took less than 5 minutes. Thankfully, we were both Negativo'.

After our test, the four of us headed to the Old Town area for a Food Tour that Nicole had scheduled. I wasn’t sure what to expect from Colombian food beyond what we had already tried, but I was more than pleasantly surprised by what we found! We met up with a tour guide (Daniela) and a few other tourists (a lady from New Jersey and a couple from Philadelphia) and then the tour commenced! The first stop was a tiny Empanada shop with no sign outside that featured milk crates among its decor. It sure didn’t look like much, but if there’s a Colombian version of “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives”, this place would be prominently featured. First, we heard about the history of the restaurant, and then we tried the Chicken Empanada with a Colombian cola. The cola was a unique red soda; the taste reminded me of Big Red soda back home, but so much better. But, if the soda was a pleasant surprise, the Empanada was a revelation. It was recommended to add hot sauce and so I did some bites with and some bites without - either way, it was splendid. As much as I enjoyed many of the foods, these Empanadas were my favorite thing on the entire trip. And it’s something I would have never ordered! It

included cabbage (that I don’t usually like) and I think there were some onions in there (that I usually hate), but it all worked together so well. We later joked with Nicole & Kyle about getting married here, so they could include the Empanadas in their meal. *(Little does John know, we actually considered this)* After enjoying the first stop immensely, it was time to hit our next stop. But before we moved on, we were told that Alex, the son of the owner of the Empanada stand, was joining us for the rest of the tour. It still seems odd that one of the few employees at the Empanada place would leave ahead of their lunch rush, but he did! Next up was a bakery where we tried a guava pastry and cheesy bread (Pandebono, another Colombian specialty), both were delicious. We also were given a glass of juice made from Lulo (also called Naranjilla). I had never even heard of Lulo, but it's a small fruit that looks like an orange on the outside, but has a green, citrusy inside. This was one of many fruits over the next hour that I'd see for the first time in my life. The juice was foamy, which led me to mislead how much was in my glass, so I chugged it and instantly regretted it; the juice was served so cold that I got a major brain freeze.

The tour continued with fried & smashed plantains from a street cart, multiple fruit items (mango, pineapple, plum, guava, caimito) from different vendors, arepas con queso, and then a stand where we had more Ceviche. This was a Shrimp Ceviche that was served in tomato-based sauce, that the tour guide told us was made from Ketchup. We had run into this style of sauce multiple times on the trip, and it was really good, which made it funny to hear it was Ketchup-based. The tour concluded with some candy, the tour group said our goodbyes, and we went our separate ways. One thing that struck me when the tour ended was that the tour guide had no expectation of a tip. Coming from a culture where you tip for just about everything, it was almost jarring how different it was in Colombia. In Colombia, if a Tip (Propina) was expected, it was probably just included in the cost/bill. We asked Kyle & Nicole if they do a lot of these Food Tours, and they said they do not, but they may have to start, because this was a great experience and a great way to try a lot of authentic cuisine.

After the tour, rather than go right back to the hotel, we did a little site-seeing in Old Town. Staci wanted to try 'real Colombian coffee' and get some souvenirs for the kids. Before we started shopping, we stopped by a public restroom, where we found out another difference between things back home versus what is common in Colombia - public restrooms may charge you for use. It cost 1.500 COP (30 cents in USD) to use the facility. And Staci found another unique aspect - toilet paper is not available in each stall; there was a shared space to get TP outside of the stalls. We started walking the area to find a coffee shop and ran into a street vendor who was doing full mime and he decided to imitate Kyle. He followed him for 30 seconds or so with Kyle not even knowing he was there. He eventually moved right next to Kyle, when Kyle finally caught on how he was being copied. Kyle joined in on the fun by doing some exaggerated walking motions that the Mime copied along. Fun stuff. After some very specific directions from a hotel front-desk, we found a Coffee Shop that had multiple signs up about how many Awards they

had won for their Coffee. Nicole, Kyle, & Staci all enjoyed a beverage and then we were on our way to find some souvenirs. Finding a place to get souvenirs was easy, as there were street vendors and small shops all over the Old Town area. But finding something we actually wanted to give our kids was a lot harder. Eventually, Staci settled on a boat-shaped Dominos game for Brock and some jewelry for Denni.

After an afternoon refresh at the Hotel, we headed back to Old Town in time for the Sunset. We found a spot on the top of the historic Fort to watch the sun descend over the Ocean, and it was a truly spectacular view with the pinkish hues in the sky extending all directions. Following the Sunset, we boarded a boat for a Dinner Cruise around the Cartagena Harbor. The Dinner Cruise was only about $65 USD per person, so we all assumed that the food would be questionable, but we were again pleased by everything that was served. But, really we weren't there for the Dinner; we were there for the night-time views of the Cartagena skyline as we rode around. We had a great spot on top of the boat where we could take in the sites, while we ate, chatted, and listened to the music (which strangely was a selection of slower versions of English cover songs). I really knew nothing about Cartagena before arrival, so it was amazing to see how impressive of a nighttime skyline that the city has with so many beautifully lit high-rise buildings. Following the cruise, we went to El Baluarte San Francisco Javier, a restaurant near where we watched the Sunset earlier, right on top of the Fort, where we enjoyed a few drinks and loved hearing more of Kyle & Nicole's stories from their trip. The next morning, we were able to grab breakfast with Kyle & Nicole before we headed back to the States. The entire trip was awesome, but too short!

If you are reading this and Kyle & Nicole are still traveling, I highly recommend that you reach out and see if you can meet up with them. You will see things you may have never seen and make some awesome memories - with some truly remarkable people. We love Kyle & Nicole!

John & Staci

*italics* - Nicole and Kyle additions